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Delhiwale: Chaikhana chronicles

India, March 1 -- The long-time Salim chaikhana shut down some months ago, condemning the Walled City to one less chakhana. This is more discouraging than it sounds. For a chaikhana is a rare thing. I... Read More


Delhiwale: This way to David Street, part II

India, March 1 -- One sleepy afternoon in Old Delhi's David Street, a kind passer-by helpfully points to a house. The bell is rung. The door flaps open. Leena Kapoor confirms she is the great-granddau... Read More


This way to David Street, part II

India, March 1 -- One sleepy afternoon in Old Delhi's David Street, a kind passerby helpfully points to a house. The bell is rung. The door flaps open. Leena Kapoor confirms she is the great-granddaug... Read More


Delhiwale: You've Got Mooli

India, Feb. 26 -- Red, brown, purple and many shades of green: Rajesh's vegetable cart is full of colours. The red is, of course, the red of the tomato. But there is another red present, sighted not o... Read More


Delhiwale: Century scored

India, Feb. 25 -- Some facts are as unbendable as iron. Gurugram is so old that it traces its name to the ancient days of Mahabharat. Gurugram is simultaneously so new that it is also known as the Mil... Read More


Spring is the thing with. semal!

India, Feb. 24 -- To be a flower is a profound responsibility. The cyclic return to bloom gives our unstable world a sense of consoling predictability. It is thus a relief to break the news that the s... Read More


Delhiwale: Spring is the thing with. semal!

India, Feb. 23 -- To be a flower is a profound responsibility. The cyclic return to bloom gives our unstable world a sense of consoling predictability. It is thus a relief to break the news that the s... Read More


Delhiwale: This way to David Street

India, Feb. 21 -- In the olden times, when the Sunday Book Bazar of Mahila Haat unfolded every week along the long Daryaganj pave, it was the 'Lohe Wala Pul' - the iron bridge - that marked the market... Read More


Delhiwale: Pink Lodhi

India, Feb. 20 -- Attached to the tips of stiff stalks, the pink flowers defy gravity, rising upwards into the pitch blue sky. Dear reader, postpone all your plans, and head to Lodhi Garden. There, f... Read More


Delhiwale: Neeli's blues

India, Feb. 19 -- It is a different kind of pleasure that one derives from gazing upon a Delhi monument by the smoggy light of the day, than from what one experiences by gazing at it amid the smoggy b... Read More